TwitchFast

For the most part I never care too much for cable management, as long as they're tucked away it's all good imo, and no offence to the OP but I have an odd feeling he won't be that anal about it either. If he wants a semi-modular/modular PSU, I can link him one.

Typically any Seasonic/XFX and some Corsair units are great. I would recommend: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/xfx-power-supply-p1650snlb9 as it's built by Seasonic, arguably the best PSU manufacturer.

First of all, the difference between an notebook and a laptop is the form factor, notebooks are typically much smaller than a laptop an will provide less power in most situations. Anything i5/i7 related will be good, try aim for a 760m or higher if you want to game. 8GB of RAM is also a safe bet.

Ahh, in which case it does make sense ;P Unfortunately the image doesn't expand enough to be able to see the fittings properly, they're barb fittings then? I personally would've gotten a 780, what issues were you having with your mobo? The G45 is fairly good. It's not bad at all for a first build, I just never recommend that case anymore due to the compatibility issues and it doesn't feel as rigid as I'd like.

Nah, you upload all the images you want to Imgur, then you copy/paste them into their repository. It will only allow you to do three at a time, however it will store more than three at once, so you can put up to 500 if you wish. Once you've done that, you can find the link to your images via Edit Sigs on the right hand side, then you'll see: your url: http://signavatar.com/random link (.png and .jpg also work)

I believe this is what you're looking for? http://signavatar.com/ allows up to 500 signatures in a rotation.

Yeah I RMA'd it, fairly quick and painless, but I personally don't want to experience the loss of everything I have :L I need more raw storage if anything.

Considering his drive was a Samsung SSD, arguably one of the most reputable brands, yes it is still possible for a normal usage (gaming) to kill a drive. You're killing me here, regardless of whether it's the flash's issue that the SSD dies, the SSD still died and there's no getting around it. Educate myself more about something you're borderline oblivious to? Good job making the worst recommendations I've seen to date. If I couldn't afford an SSD, I wouldn't be running an Intel CPU nor a 780 Ti. If anyone is making uneducated posts, it would be you considering you can barely structure a coherent sentence pertaining to SSDs. An SSD will provide absolutely ZERO performance increases in games, therefore it's utterly useless for the user if he wants performance, are you seriously that mentally incompetent you cannot understand that?

I'm inexperienced yet you barely understand what I'm typing, either that or you're too stupid to comprehend what I type. You can't even determine what is and what isn't an assumption, I have had SSD's come back from people who I help, and that was under a year with a guy who doesn't use tax his system. You seem to think that because you may or may not work with systems, that makes you more knowledgeable yet your advice and sentences all resemble that of a cretin. The quality of the SSD and the use-case scenario is highly important, yet you seem to think it's irrelevant when it directly correlates to the lifespan of the drive, go figure.

The limitation is the flash, the flash itself dies once the read/write cycles are used up, so stop trying to make assumptions because they're incorrect. According to your flawed logic, a "gamer" wouldn't use up the write cycles of a good quality SSD, yet I've had countless SSD's come back to me dead in under a year. So, I'd appreciate if you weren't such a douche with your terrible advice. I really couldn't care what you do work-wise, it doesn't make you correct, so it's irrelevant.

Haha, ask anyone that knows me if I know much about computers. You clearly are recommending from mere hearsay, SSD's are not the godsend people assume them to be.

I'd pick the Corsair one, as previously mentioned Razer is rebranding Kailh switches and trying to make them sound good.

I will admit the PSU issue is a pretty big one, Raidmax is notorious for their low quality power supplies. SSD's are good if you want to load large programs like photoshop quickly, however SSD's have a limited amount of times you can read/write to the flash before it dies, so I personally wouldn't recommend it - Especially since they provide no performance increases in games. One thing you might want to consider if you found the stock intel heatsink too loud (which I did), is an aftermarket CPU heatsink. http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-rr212e20pkr2 Not exactly expensive, but it is a very nice cooler for the price, I can also say it's very quiet as I've had one. If you want to increase performance, you could either upgrade to an Intel i7-4790k or buy another 280x and run them in crossfire, both of which are kinda pricey.

That's hardly a pro tip, my system is far from shitty and I don't own an SSD. Besides, you're literally paying ~$60-$100+ for a boot-up speed decrease, use it for anything practical and it will likely die due to limitations of flash memory.

First question would be, what exactly do you feel like needs upgrading? Anything in particular you're struggling to run?

In which case I wouldn't trust fraps, not even the 7990 (dual 7970 card) can pull off 50 fps on ultra at 4k. The point being that 4K requires you to dump a huge amount into your graphics card setup otherwise you won't achieve nice framerates.

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/graphics/2013/11/27/battlefield-4-performance-analysis/6 Yeah... I'm not going to trust that, if my card averages 37, there's no way yours would get over 50.

CSGO isn't a demanding game in the slightest, that's like playing League of Legends. I have a 780 Ti and I wouldn't even consider gaming at 4k, you'd be looking at medium if not lower settings.

4K is a bad idea right now anyway, I wouldn't pay $500 for that given the requirements to run games nicely, not to mention Windows looks like crap with 4k.

Personally I don't see the point of upgrading to 1440p/1600p or 4K as of now - 1440p/1600p isn't a large enough resolution increase for me to be bothered, whereas 4K is just too demanding right now. Three 1080p panels is good enough for me, especially in the gaming department.

First thing is that you cannot make it completely silent without using passive cooling, which isn't possible on medium/high end systems. https://pcpartpicker.com/part/fractal-design-case-fdcadefr4bl It may seem expensive, however it will provide equal to or lower noise levels than liquid cooling at a fraction of the price - I really can't recommend that case enough, it's built like a tank and is covered in noise dampening foam.

In which case, I would just recommend replacing your case fans and buying a low-end aftermarket CPU heatsink. CPU Heatsink: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-rr212e20pkr2 Case fans: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/bitfenix-case-fan-bffscf12025kkrp I would recommend liquid cooling/AIO's, however it's completely unnecessary as you're not overclocking, and there are cheaper options for a quiet system.

Have you checked your temperatures? We can't help if we don't know what the issue is.

Are you sure it even needs to cool down? Chances are the case fans are just noisy and running at 12 volts while the temperatures are still low. Use a program like Speccy to check your temperatures.

For what it's worth, I would get: http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-151-BX&campaign=affiliate/tag Since I've never heard of the manufacturer behind the case you linked, and the flashier cases tend to be made with low quality materials.